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Non-Fiction
Fungi and me
By patterjack
14 April 2008
First bit of prose for some time .

The tips of my fingers have lately been growing darkly stained from peeling mushrooms . I prefer to nick the stalk from within their bells then put the knife aside to use my fingers to detach the peel from the upper portion.  There is something  immensely satisfying in watching the skin peel away in its long, soft strips,  leaving the fleshy covering white and open in contrast to the pink gills.   But the fingers stain especially if the gills have gone brown!  

I do this of course with the larger field mushrooms,  not with the button champignons.  In fact I have never been all that fond of the button mushrooms in themselves, as I find them tasteless compared to the robust flavour of the bigger field mushrooms though they make a fine texture enhancer in some dishes, and their  blandness works well enough in stroganoffs or even,(if you are not a gastronomic perfectionist), goulash.

Field mushrooms, now readily available in our local vegetable mart, have always been part of my culinary experiences.  I admit that what are now called field mushrooms are most probably grown on the mushroom farms, some of which are to be found in the disused railway tunnels of the mountains near Sydney, and are most likely to be a cleaner product than those from the open fields where I once gathered them.

The exotic Asian  varieties like Shiitake, Shimeji, Enokitaki , Oyster and Wood Ear now available are grown in sterilised sawdust under special conditions.  The fungi are no longer to be regarded as for instance the public has long been thought of by politicians in particular: to be Fed on bullshit and kept in the  dark.

I can remember those times when, being doubled on the bar of my father's  bicycle,  I would accompany him out to the fields near Pokolbin,  now the centre of a wonderful wine producing  district, but at that time with fewer established wineries and a lot of cattle paddocks.  Those  cattle supplied the beef for the local butchers, who incidentally had a large share in the old vineyards as well.  One morning in particular I remember, for as we went out, another gatherer was returning on his bicycle,  and I have a very vivid memory of the round wicker basket slung from his  handlebars which was mounded with mushrooms --  a dome shape protruding below the handle, all neatly packed high with the gathered fungi.  I was, in my childish way, somewhat distressed, as I thought there might be none left for us!   Fortunately there were!

In the western towns of Bathurst and Wagga where I and the family later lived, my son and I would frequently go off into the bush, sometimes but not often accompanied by my daughters, for the purpose of shooting rabbits. Very often we would return with a supplementary loading of mushrooms as well. One problem with those mushrooms was that they were often infested  with very tiny black beetles;  more protein, I suppose, if you were willing to eat them.  However we always got enough clear ones to go with the baked rabbit.

When we moved to Sydney such expeditions were not feasible, but I found that there were mushroom farms (thus called) to be purchased;  a box, and within it a large plastic bag full of mushroom compost, which one opened, kept in a dark place, and watered frequently. Within a few days, there were small mushrooms sprouting prolifically-- so prolifically that I tried my hand at pickling some.  It was a great boost to my ego when I took some jars along to a party, to have one party-goer inform me that she would not have brought them, but would have kept them all for herself.  She did indeed eat most of them!
 
I am a real Hobbit for mushrooms and enjoy cooking them simply in a butter sauce,  but now and then I experiment with the addition of herbs and sherry and so on.     I also enjoy the more exotic varieties (when I can afford them!) not only the Asian types but also the European varieties like the  Swiss Brown and even the strongly aroma-laden Porcini.  I use dried mushrooms in my Chinese cooking too.

My liking for the fungi has been handed down to my doctor son,  who, in his wanderings through the scrublands near his own north coast home, and on my block while I owned the Dondingalong property,  would return with an amazing variety of fungi. He always complained that there were not many texts for their identification.  Some may well have been poisonous,  but he took good care to check--sometimes by merely nibbling a piece and waiting. I don't think he ever found any of the psilocybes on the property but he did find a great number of different fungi. I understand that some witches of the past made use of those to fly.

My only experience of magic mushrooms or gold caps has been vicariously via Alice in Wonderland,  and I prefer to leave it at that .

Reviews

Written by Phil (6393 comments posted) 14th April 2008
I'm a mushroom lover too - paricularly porcini - which are expensive over here too. There's a restaurant near here that does an excellent mushroom (porcini) stew type thing on home-baked bread as a starter. Wonderful. 
 
I'd be terrified of picking the wrong type of mushroom and falling ill. I suppose I'll always be a townie. 
 
Enjoyed this, Brian.  
 
Phil 
 

Written by mia_ms_kim (891 comments posted) 14th April 2008
Yum!!! I love mushrooms, mostly raw but cooked is good, too. There is that springy texture of mushroom so pleasant to bite on. And their bland sweetish taste is so attractive to me. So I often throw them into green salad and toss them with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The dried mushroom from Asian groceries when cooked, take on the texture and taste of beef, very chewy, so with vedgetables and teriyaki sauce - yum!!! There are also very expensive dried mushrooms (used by Chinese herbalists) my mother-in-law boils. The liquid is supposed to be medicinal. Ugh!  
 
I know the satisfaction that comes from skinning the mushrooms, too, pj. I always skin them before cooking. (We spent three days in Pokolbin some years ago – it’s very pretty now. We went wine-tasting, and bought a couple of bottles.) 
 
It’s funny you mention the mushroom farm (box). My uncle, (my Dad’s brother) used to be a professor of Agriculture in Seoul university, who specialised in microbiology. About 20 years ago, he visited us while attending some conference in Sydney. He’d done some heavy-duty fungi research and was promoting the "mushroom farm box" project in Sydney.  
 
You have inspired me, pj. I’m going mushroom shopping this week! 
 
Mia 8)

Written by fellpony (1507 comments posted) 15th April 2008
Fun piece. I remember a well known British expert fungophile, Bruce Ing, who lectured at our college. He ran a fungus tasting evening, one autumn, with over a dozen varieties of fungus culled from Delamere Forest the day before. Everyone started off with the mild, field mushrooms; then as he moved through the more unusual, like the beefsteak, cep, chanterelle, Jew's ear, and so on, people stopped volunteering to taste. I think I was in the final four or five who'd tried everything. (No truffles though!)  
 
However, these days i have to be careful, since I overindulged on field mushrooms in the year we moved to our farm - which was a whiteout year for them on our fields. My body has grown out of coping with them! Nowadays I only eat the freshest and blandest because the other types give me collywobbles.
Enjoyed.
Written by Bottleblondesurfer (3141 comments posted) 17th April 2008
A nice bit of anecdotal writing. I like these prose offerings from you. But of course the poet is still there in the lyrical narrative. I remember a quote about “The poet in prose is the most enticing of writers” and I think that is what makes these pieces so readable. There is also the authorial voice [which is lacking in so many pieces] which reassures the reader that the author knows where he wants to go in the piece and the reader is more than happy to follow. You move effortlessly from detailed and luxuriantly detailed descriptions of the mushrooms to some personal history and keep moving back and forth with fresh information to keep the reader interested. It’s so satisfying to read a well-structured bit of writing. 
I’ve never been particularly interested in mushrooms but after this I’ll look out for some of the ones mentioned in my supermarket and try some of them on my astonished family. Your enthusiasm for them is catching 

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