This story is in honor of my gardening family members.
It's pea picking time this week, thanks to my husband's dedicated
gardening. The vines are thick with pods and the harvest full and
plenty. As peas are always the first freezable vegetable to ripen in
the garden, I'm now full of all sorts of energy for picking, shelling,
podding, blanching and freezing. Ask me again in two weeks how
enthusiastic I am about my pea patch...
My earliest childhood memories include the taste and smell of fresh
peas. We lived in farming country where 50 years ago hundreds of acres
of peas were grown for canning and freezing. During the harvest, large
pea harvesting machines would arrive for several days and travel down
the road in caravans of 10 or 12, going from farm to farm to farm. They
worked 24 hours a day to harvest as quickly as possible and traveled
the roads late at night because they were so huge, they would take up
both lanes of the country roads. Inevitably a string of cars would
form behind the pea harvesters, unable to pass, so it became a grand
annual parade celebrating the humble pea.
The smell in the air when the fields were harvested was
indescribable except to say it was most definitely a "green" and
deliciously fresh smell. The vines and pods would end up as silage for
cattle and the peas would be separated to go to the cannery. I figured
those peas were destined for the city dwellers because in our back yard
garden, we grew plenty of our own.
Pea seeds, wrinkled and frankly a little boring, could be planted
even before the last frost was done with us in March, or even sometimes
on Washington's birthday in February. The soil needed to not be frozen
and not be sopping. True, the seeds might sit still for a few weeks,
unwilling to risk germination until the coast was clear and soil warmed
a bit, but once they were up out of the ground, there was no stopping
them. We would generally have several rotations growing, in the hope
of a 6 week pea eating season if we were fortunate, before the heat and
worms claimed the vines and the pods.
We always planted telephone peas, so the support of the vines was
crucial--we used hay twine run up and down between two taut smooth
wires attached high and low to wooden posts. The vines could climb 6
feet tall or better and it was fascinating to almost literally watch
the pea tendrils wind their way around the strings (and each other),
erotically clinging and wrapping themselves in their enthusiasm.
Once the pods start to form, impatience begins. I'd be out in the
garden every day copping feels, looking for that first plump pod to
pick and pop open. It never failed that I would pick too soon, and
open a pod to find only weenie little peas, barely with enough
substance to taste. Within a day or two, however, the harvest would be
overwhelming, so we'd have to pick early in the morning while the peas
were still cool from the night dew.
Then it was shelling time, which involved several siblings on a back
porch, one mother supervising from a distance to make sure there
weren't too many peas being pelted in pique at an annoying little
brother, and lots of bowls to catch the peas and the pods. A big paper
sack of intact pods would yield only a few cups of peas, so this was
great labor for small yield. Opening a pod of peas is extremely
satisfying though; there is a tiny audible "pop" when the pod is
pressed at the bottom, and then as your thumb runs down the inner seam
of the pod loosening all the peas, they make a dozen little "pings" in
the bowl when they fall. A symphony of pea shelling often accompanied
by the Beach Boys and the Beatles.
Once the weather got hot, the pea worms would be at work in the
pods, so then one encountered wiggly white larvae with little black
heads and their webs inside the pods. We actually had a "Wormie" song
we sung when we found one, even in the 60's recognizing that our
organic garden meant sharing the harvest with crawling protein
critters. The peas would be bored through, like a hollowed out jack
o'lantern, so those got dumped in the discard bowl heading for the
compost pile.
The dull green coat of the raw pea turns bright green during the
several minutes of blanching in boiling water, then they are plunged
into ice water until cool and packed in ziplock bags. Those peas are
welcomed to the table during the other 10 months out of the year,
sometimes mixed with carrots, sometimes with mushrooms, sometimes
chased with a little fresh garlic. They are simply one of the most
elegant and perfect foods there is (other than chocolate).
From an undistinguished pea seed to intricate vines and coiling
tendrils--from pregnant pods bursting at the seams to a bounty of
meals: the humble pea does indeed deserve a grand parade in the middle
of the night.
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