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Dakota Diary - Chapter 3
By jean.day
22 September 2008
Chapter 3 - Chicago
May 28-30, 1883
 
Our hotel was in a block that was bounded by Clark Street, LaSalle, Quincy and Jackson. We walked down Rush Street, known for its night life and then to the business district called the Loop as the streetcars converge in this area and then turn around to go back again.  The main store we visited, and spent quite considerable amount of our money in was on State Street and Washington, Marshal Fields.

Looking carefully at the notes about the city we had been given at the hotel, we found out quite a lot about its history.

The original plan for the town of Chicago left the area east of Michigan Avenue unsubdivided and vacant, and purchasers of Michigan Avenue lots were promised that it would remain unoccupied. When the former Fort Dearborn became part of the town site in 1839, the whole of the area east of Michigan Avenue south of Randolph was marked "Public ground. Forever to remain vacant of buildings." It was named Lake Park in 1844. When the Illinois Central Railway was built in 1852, it entered the city along the lake front on a causeway built just offshore. The resulting lagoon became stagnant, and was largely filled in 1871 with debris from the great fire. We, of course went by it on the train as we came into the city, but now that we know its history, it makes it that much more interesting.

Another place we visited was the one recommended by our hotel manager, the water tower and pumping station, built in 1869 by architect William W. Boyington from yellowing Joliet limestone, and, we are told, it is 154 feet tall.

We were quite exhausted after our sightseeing and shopping trip, and were pleased to be asked to join Mr. Lester at his table in the hotel that evening.

When we told each other how we had spent our days, Mr. Lester said he had been reading about the dress rehearsal for the Wild West show that had taken place in Omaha a few weeks before.

The article was written by J C Bush the Telegraph editor in the May 3rd issue. Mr. Bush had gone on an excursion to North Platte, Nebraska, which included a May 1 visit to Buffalo Bill’s ranch.

Here is what it says, "In the afternoon in company with Mr. James McNulty and Hon. W. F. Cody we visited the germ of the great show which is to spring into existence the latter part of this month at Omaha and which will sweep all before it when once fairly started.

"On a piece of level meadow land was pitched the tents for the men while the buffalo and a large number of horses were grazing in an adjoining pasture. A number of elk were expected in a day or two and men were engaged purchasing the most famous bucking horses that Nebraska afforded. 'Buck' Taylor, who is to be one of the star riders of the combination, gave an exhibition on a wall-eyed calico horse that would astonish the effeminate easterners, and if he lives long enough the performance will be repeated for their benefit during the summer.

"Another wing of the show is getting under way at Omaha, where the Indians will join it, and about the 17th of the present month the western Nebraska wonder will give its opening exhibition at the state's metropolis."

Mr. Lester firmly recommended that we go to Springfield a day early, in order to take in the sights of what is, of course, the state capitol of Illinois, and the home of our former president, Abraham Lincoln.

But we still had Tuesday to fill. Mr. Lester said he intended to visit the Mackenzie House, the oldest building in Chicago, and asked if we wished to join him, and we readily agreed.

Tuesday May 29

At breakfast, Mr. Lester said that in his walking through the city the day before, he had come across a newly published book, called Chicago’s First Half Century. He read some of it out to us.

"Under the sub-heading, ‘THE FIRST SURPRISE,’ we learn: The first surprise in the history of Chicago was its settlement. It has been said that the first white settler was a negro. This was Jean Baptiste Point au Sable, who came from San Domingo in 1796, and staked his claim on the site of the present business center, rearing his rude hut in the neighborhood of Dearborn and Water streets. This first ‘white settler’ was, however, ambitious to become an Indian chief, notwithstanding his negro blood, and tried to ingratiate himself into the affections of the Indians; but, meeting with poor success, he removed to Peoria, where he died, and with him the hope of planting a San Domingo colony on the banks of the Chicago river.

“Then came a Frenchman, Le Mai, a trader, who ‘jumped’ the negro settler’s claim, and took possession of his cabin, and, after several years’ residence, sold his interest in Chicago to John Kinzie, who was then the agent of Astor’s American Fur Company. The cabin was enlarged and improved, and in 1804 became the home of Mr Kinzie and the first house in Chicago.

“Without any effort on his own part, Le Mai’s mere occupation of the building transforms it from a ‘rude hut’ to a ‘cabin,’ presumably a more fitting dwelling for a white European.

“See, here is an illustration of what it looked like,” and he showed us the picture.

So having been historically prepared, we made our visit to the house in question, which really didn't seem like very much to make a fuss about. 

Then, we went to the train station to enquire about which train we should attempt to get the next day. The first convenient one left at 8 a.m. and would take until 5 p.m. at to reach Springfield, which was some 190 miles away. We were recommended to get rooms at the Station Hotel, close by the train. 

I must just update my expenses record. We spent just over $10 on our shopping - which seems extragavent, now I look back on it. But we wanted to get presents for the family back home, as well as not being able to resist some blouses of very fine voile, which will be saved for some special occasion on our trip.

We were very fortunate that Mr. Lester paid for our expenses on our little jaunt out today. The tickets to Springfield cost us $7.00 each, and our hotel there will be $2 a night, but we shall have to buy food and our tickets for the performance.
 

Reviews

Written by Fledermaus (3490 comments posted) 22nd September 2008
I once heard that Chicago became big in the twentieth century, but I guess it was already a bit of a city in the 19th century then... 
A funny idea, this black 'white settler'. I think the history of the African Americans is fascinating. All too often the story is about slavery and the US civil war, but there is so much more to it: The maroons of Brazil and the Guyanas, the empire of Haiti, the black Seminoles of Florida, and here is yet another interesting person. It's a pity that those stories often seem to be forgotten in history lessons, for they are as much part of America's history as the natives and the European settlers. 
 
A most interesting and educative chapter.

Written by bluecity (432 comments posted) 22nd September 2008
Very interesting chapter about Chicago. I have nearly gone there twice, but never actually made it.  
 
Interesting what Fledermaus says about the role of black races in America. My recollection is that the blacks in the north were very proud and self-confident. They didn't think they were as good as the white man - they knew! 
 
Btw, I think you need possibly to check your commas in the first few paragraphs.  
 
I'm just wondering how Mattie and CoraSue got on with their journalism. They really weren't given very good leads by that hotel manager. I just hope they got on better than Jenny in ATWCTD. 
 
The costs are interesting. We haven't got the measure of just how great inflation has been in the last century and a half. I remember that Moll Flanders thought she could live on £4 a year in the 18th century. 
 
Rosemary 
Hello Jean.
Written by petmarj (108 comments posted) 23rd September 2008
Most of us will have heard of Chicago when Al Capone ruled in the 1920's. This chapter takes us back much further, and the costs of goods and clothing show the immense rise in the cost of living. 
I passed through Chicago in 1956 on board a bus. We were given a break of three hours and I walked along the city streets noting the jazz houses, the cafes and the huge stores. It seemed to have everything. I believe the population then was 2 1/2 million. 
How different it must have been in the 1800's. Your chapter makes us think back to those days, and to the tough times the Negroes had. I'm sure that most folk are happy they now have more freedom and respect. 
Looking forward to the next chapter. 
Thank you for your review of Beluga - 7. 
Best Wishes, 
Peter.
Thanks Ron, Rosmary and Peter
Written by jean.day (2366 comments posted) 23rd September 2008
I thought it was interesting that the Indians thought the Black man was White.  
 
I worked with a lot of Blacks in New York - and they were self confident for the most part. They were equal or superior to the whites in the hospital where I worked. I remember my first conversation with Otis - the black head chef. He said, "You don't know quite what to make of me, do you?" But we became very good friends.  
 
Mattie and Cora Sue will be writing up their adventures, but I don't do the journalism for them this time.

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