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| The Howgills | |
| Written by fellpony | ||||||||||
| 30 December 2006 | ||||||||||
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My first encounter with the Eastern Lake District (where I now live) was seeing the massive shapes of the Howgill Fells through the windows of a train en route to Scotland. I was amazed then, and am still amazed now when I live so close to them, by the brooding power of these strange, smooth hills. They are neither of the Lakes nor of the Pennines. Wainwright called them "sleeping elephants." They border the Lune Gorge, through which runs one of the most ancient trackways in the area, a route that the British and the Romans adopted, then the droveways and toll roads, to be followed by the railway and finally the motorway of modern times. I could write a learned article about the facts, but no medium but poetry can embody the atmosphere. Does it work? Their sandaled feet marched northward on a straight well cambered road, Newly laid of small clean stone according to Roman code. Your wheels go by on the tarmac with a noise like monstrous bees, Propelled by hopes of pleasure among rocks and fells and trees. You don your sturdy rucksacks and your high tech walking boots, Study your Wainwright and hope you can find his illustrated routes. The Roman swords were ready for the ambush should it come, But our steep banked woods were silent and the marching road was dumb. In the two thousand years between you, give or take a hundred or two, We have compelled your lines so close, the old beneath the new, That the cambered road of the Romans lies within your motorway fence, And your railway shoulders the bank-and-wall of Agricola’s defence. We have squeezed all into the valley, so we watch with calm disdain. The Romans have gone, and you will go. We will be alone again.
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