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Non-Fiction
Sailing Along the Great Barrier Reef
By patterjack
31 December 2006
Not in any special sequence

Sailing on the Barrier Reef

Set some time after the Baby in the Box tale .

After we had transported the new born baby Garth ( he's now 17 !! ) northwards in his cardboard box cradle , we picked up the Warriuka , Bruce's father's eight berth catamaran -- which he had built himself -- at Airlie Beach on the Whitsundays .

The crew then consisted of Bruce , Vanessa , Bruce's father Peter , me , and Garth -- who had little to contribute to the sailing at about three months old . If it comes to that , neither did I have any boating expertise in anything other than in twelve foot aluminium runabouts , in which I almost managed to drown myself on a couple of occasions anyway . Therefore I took it on myself to leave the nautical expertise to the other three , while I was happy to be chief cook and bottle washer , with now and then the happy task of tending young Garth .

All those years ago !

Much of the memory of the eight weeks we spent cruising as been conflated with the trip that the wife and I had done on the boat a year or two previously . I have lost the basic references which I had briefly listed in my tiny diary , such as places visited and the order in which we made landfall . Therefore I am forced to recall through a failing memory some of the highlights of the weeks .

Two events jump immediately to mind however . Vanessa and I were lazing in the sunshine on the foredeck , watching the dolphins playing around the prow and just relaxing as one can do under a light sail on a fresh morning . We also kept an eye out for any whales that might be journeying along the coast because , though we did not see very many , there was always great excitement when we did . Every now and then I or she would also work round to the stern to check the long lines that always trailed behind the vessel , in the hopes that we might have hooked a mackerel -- always a welcome addition to the meals .

I sat up to go round , when I noticed a large dark object quite a long distance ahead , and checked with Vanessa to see that she had seen it too. She had , so we called back to Bruce who was helmsman at the time , and pointed it out . It was the only big rock poking up out of the Whitsunday Passage for a huge distance around .

Bruce congratulated his eagle-eyed lookouts -- because that was the major reference for which he was steering , and though there was never any chance of us running into it , he was pleased to be able to get his exact bearings from its presence . With the tide , it was barely visible , just a hump with an oily swell breaking over it , so Vanessa and I felt we had done our sailorly duty with great acuity .

The other occasion while at sea rather than on an island , was a sailing leg we did at night . It was a long distance between the two islands from which and towards which we were heading , so Peter , as navigator , and a very competent one at that , decided we should make most of the trip by night . The reasoning behind this was that , since we were well out of sight of land anyway , we might as well save time and be at the next island for exploration during daylight .

Sometimes , with reluctance , I had steered the Warriuka , but always in daylight and under the watchful directions of the others. So , while Bruce and Peter steered in shifts , I was able to take naps , make coffee and now and then enliven proceedings with my illuminating conversation .

We used the motors rather than rig sail in the dark , so the night passed to the sound of the thump of the big diesels till very late indeed .

On one trip out to the cockpit with coffee , I sat out and looked at the stars and sniffed the sea smells , thinking to myself what a great way to spend a holiday .

It was then that Peter remarked on a distant light , speculating whether it was one of the big sailing beacons along the reef . If it was indeed a small lighthouse then he was of the opinion that his reckoning was out.

However , it was not a beacon , but a brilliantly lit up prawner vessel , anchored off a big sandy island . It seems that the current was much stronger than Peter had allowed for , and though there was no danger , it had carried us quite a few nautical miles eastward out of our direction .

We ourselves were able to drop anchor in a bay not far from the prawner , and next morning Bruce took the small dinghy and motored over to buy some prawns . He came back with half a box at a very low price . After the prawns are caught and cooked they are boxed up and set into refrigerated store rooms , and it was a good deal for both sides , as half a box is not a lot of use to the prawner in the markets.

Thus it was what we had a supply of prawns for a couple of meals-- and I can affirm that not one of which among the eighty or so of them was any shorter in length than twelve inches with the heads off -- indeed they looked almost the size of small lobsters .

By going ashore between the rocky points of the low island , Vanessa and I were able to collect a couple of quarts of oysters , shelling them as we went , and the seafood feast was , to say the least , remarkably satisfying as we journeyed on towards our original destination .

A slight miscalculation but it all turned out remarkably well for us .

Reviews

Written by Phil (6683 comments posted) 31st December 2006
I wasn't even there Brian, but this is still evocative. You write in such a direct and understated way that the reader, at least this one, is immediately transported in time and place. Thoroughly enjoyed. 
 
It must be about midnight in your part of the world - so happy new year to you and yours. 
 
Phil.

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