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Non-Fiction
1km Amsterdam
By Fledermaus
23 March 2007
Just what can you encounter walking from Amsterdam Central station to Chinatown? I think the trip can hardly be more than 1 km...

You arrive at the Central Station. People crowd in front of the escalator and everyone wants to descent into the dark corridors lined with shops. And so do you. You can see the stalls and smell their food, but then you see daylight.
A square filled with bicycles and trams. You nearly trip over a pigeon and around you, you can hear all languages of the world. Then you notice a bridge and when you look down over the railing, you can see a long, narrow boat with a roof made out of glass. People wave at you as they see you are looking at them. You wave back and then move on. A cab nearly hits you as you follow the stream of people while the traffic light is still red. On your left Berlage's trade centre lines the street and in the middle of the broad avenue there are colourful, strangely shaped lanterns. You walk along the Damrak, past souvernir shops selling wooden shoes and Delftware, a few snackbars and the Sex museum.
Then you reach the Dam, with its war monument which some thought of as a giant fallus. Once upon a  time hippies assembled here, but nowadays it's the domain of pigeons and performers. People try to look like statues on the square, while statues try to look like humans in Madamme Tussaud's.

You take a small street behind Krasnapolsky. At first it appears just like any other shopping street, but then the objects in the windows change. You see pipes in all colours, mushrooms and toadstools, and soon you encounter coffeeshops which sell quite different things than coffee. The scent of drugs fills the air and you hear a lot of English around you. Bob Marley clones try to sell you things which are not even allowed in Holland.
You cross another bridge, for there are many in Amsterdam. In the shop-windows there are still stranger things than the pipes and mushrooms you just saw. Women wearing naught but underwear stand in cabins the size of phonebooths. The shops are decorated with red lights and it all has the surrealistic atmosphere of a themepark. Yet instead of dinosaurs or Ali Baba's thieves there are prostitutes. Women for hire, here on display...
You cross dark alleys, looked upon by these women. What goes on in their minds? What brought them here? How many sad stories lay behind the faces in this human zoo?

Then suddenly a streets opens up before you and yet another world begins. The signs are in Chinese, even the street names are bilingual. Here there are no prostitutes, nor drug dealers. Instead you see chickens and ducks hanging in the shop windows. And between the restaurants and grocery stores, a temple... Buddha smiles at you, the enlightened one waits behind so many earthly things...

Reviews

Written by anorwegianwood (278 comments posted) 23rd March 2007
I don't usually like things written in the second person, but I enjoyed this. The description is evocative and unique, and the touches of humor add a nice feel to the piece. 
 
~Claire
HI Fledermaus
Written by jean.day (2266 comments posted) 24th March 2007
We spent a long weekend in Amsterdam about 10 years ago - and went along much of the route as you described it - so it was fun reading about it all again. We really enjoyed our time there.

Written by Fledermaus (3246 comments posted) 24th March 2007
Thanks Claire and Jean. 
Going to Amsterdam always feels a bit like going on holiday for me. It's probably as exotic for Dutch people as it is for foreigners. :)

Written by Phil (6683 comments posted) 25th March 2007
Good piece Fledermaus, with a distinct ending. Worked well. Never been to Holland, so I enjoyed readng about this. I'm sure one day, I'll get there. 
 
Phil.

Written by Fledermaus (3246 comments posted) 26th March 2007
Thank you Phil. Amsterdam is rather different from the rest of the Netherlands, but it's a very interesting city :)

Written by Witzl (1585 comments posted) 26th March 2007
This brought back memories, Fledermaus. When I first went to the Netherlands, I stayed at a youth hostel in Dam Square and did not even realize I was in the red light district. Stupid, right? I then moved to Weteringschans, just across from the Rijksmuseum. I used to go to Chinatown often, and I do remember street signs in Chinese. But until I read your piece, I had completely forgotten this.

Written by Fledermaus (3246 comments posted) 28th March 2007
Thanks Witzl. 
Maybe you could write a nice non-fiction piece about that too? :)

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